The Milford Track is a 53.5km hiking trail in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand, taking 4 days to complete. Known as “the finest walk in the world,” it traverses rainforest, alpine passes (MacKinnon Pass at 1,154m), and waterfalls, ending at Milford Sound. Bookings required; operates October-April with hut accommodations.
Last time I walked the Milford Track, I kept thinking about all those trampers who’d done it before me – over 130 years of footsteps on the same path. There’s something humbling about that.
The weather threw everything at us. Proper Fiordland style – sunshine one minute, horizontal rain the next. But honestly? That’s part of what makes it special. When we finally reached the top of Mackinnon Pass and the clouds briefly parted, I just stood there like an idiot with my mouth open. No photo really captures that moment.
The huts surprised me most. I’d expected basic shelter, but they’re actually pretty comfortable. Nothing fancy, but after a full day’s walk, having a hot shower and a proper bunk felt like luxury. Plus, the rangers who staff them are brilliant – full of stories and genuinely passionate about the track.
Giant Gate Falls was my unexpected highlight. Everyone raves about Sutherland Falls, and fair enough, it’s massive. But there was something about standing at the base of Giant Gate, feeling the spray on my face, completely alone for about ten minutes before the next group arrived. That’s the memory that stuck.
Would I do it again? Absolutely. But next time I’d pack lighter – my shoulders are still reminding me I didn’t need quite so many “just in case” items. And I’d book even earlier. Getting a spot feels like winning the lottery these days.
If you’re exploring the Fiordland region, check out walks around Milford Sound for shorter day hikes that showcase this stunning area.
Let’s talk about the elephant in the room. Getting a booking on the Milford Track is harder than finding a sandfly-free spot in Fiordland (spoiler: they don’t exist). DOC releases bookings months in advance and popular dates disappear faster than your energy levels on Day 3.
Here’s what the guidebooks won’t tell you: bookings open at 9:30am New Zealand time on a specific date each year. Set an alarm. Have multiple devices ready. Be logged in early. It’s not quite Glastonbury festival levels of chaos but it’s close. If your preferred dates are gone, don’t despair – cancellations do happen and the DOC website has a waitlist system.
Shoulder season trampers often get the best conditions. Everyone assumes December is ideal but I’ve heard countless stories of people getting four days of rain in peak summer and glorious clear skies in November.
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This is your gentle introduction. It’s deliberately short to let you ease into track life and adjust to your pack weight. You’ll catch a boat from Te Anau Downs to Glade Wharf – resist the urge to judge your pack weight against other trampers at this point because everyone overpacks their first time.
The walk follows the Clinton River through beech forest. It’s flat, wide and honestly a bit anticlimactic after all the buildup. But here’s the thing – this is your shakedown. Your boots might feel fine now but they’ll tell you the truth by Day 2. Any hot spots on your feet? Deal with them tonight. That slightly uncomfortable pack strap? Adjust it now.
Clinton Hut sits in a beautiful clearing. Arrive early enough to do the side trip to Clinton Falls if conditions allow. Most people skip this because they’re busy settling in but it’s a nice little 30-minute return walk.
Now the track gets interesting. You’re still following the Clinton Valley but the scenery shifts dramatically. The forest becomes denser and more primeval. This is proper Fiordland rainforest – dripping, green and absolutely ancient.
The track is well-maintained but there are roots, rocks and plenty of ups and downs. Nothing too steep but your legs will know they’ve worked. After about 12km you reach Lake Mintaro, which is stunning when it’s calm. The hut sits right beside it.
Here’s an insider tip: the last 4km to Mintaro can feel long when you’re tired. Break it up mentally. Count the swing bridges (there are several and they’re fun). Look for riflemen birds – tiny native birds that sound like squeaky toys. Anything to keep your mind off your feet.
Mintaro Hut is many people’s favorite. It has character. The sunset over Lake Mintaro is phenomenal when the weather cooperates. Rangers usually do a talk in the evening about the next day’s big challenge: MacKinnon Pass.
This is the day you came for. MacKinnon Pass sits at 1,154 meters and it will test you. The climb from Mintaro is 11km of steady uphill with about 900 meters of elevation gain. It’s not technical but it’s relentless.
Start early. Not because you need the extra time necessarily but because weather in the mountains is generally better in the morning. Pack all your warm layers and rain gear at the top of your pack. The temperature drops significantly at the pass and weather changes fast.
The climb breaks into three sections. The first part through forest is steep and you’ll be breathing hard. The middle section opens up into alpine scrub with increasingly dramatic views. The final push to the pass is exposed and can be windy. On a clear day the views are absolutely worth every huffing step.
At the top there’s a small emergency shelter (not for lunch stops unless weather is terrible – save it for people who need it). The memorial to Quintin MacKinnon who discovered the pass sits here too. Take your photos but don’t linger too long if it’s cold.
Here’s what they don’t tell you: the descent is harder on your body than the ascent. It’s 6km down to Dumpling Hut with a steep section at the start. Your knees and toes will be screaming by the bottom. Take it slow and use trekking poles if you have them.
The side trip to Sutherland Falls is accessed from the descent path. It’s an extra 1.5km return but absolutely worth it. Sutherland Falls drops 580 meters in three cascades and the viewing area at the base is spectacular. Go early before other groups arrive or you’ll be photobombing everyone.
Your legs will feel heavy this morning. The track drops steadily through rainforest following the Arthur River. This section showcases Fiordland’s famous waterfalls. Giant Gate Falls is about 4km from the hut and it’s magnificent.
The track here is excellent – clearly DOC saves its maintenance budget for this side of the pass because it’s like walking on a highway compared to some New Zealand tracks. There are several swing bridges and countless smaller waterfalls. The forest is lush and incredibly green.
Around 11km in you’ll cross Mackay Falls on a bridge. Shortly after is Bell Rock, a massive boulder balanced on other rocks. Then it’s the final push through lowland forest to Sandfly Point.
And yes, the sandflies at Sandfly Point absolutely live up to the name. They will find every exposed bit of skin within seconds of you stopping. Have your sandfly repellent ready. The boat pickup area has a small shelter where you can wait for your transfer to Milford Sound. Celebrate finishing but keep moving until you’re on that boat.
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Pack weight matters enormously over 53 kilometers. Every unnecessary item becomes heavier with each step. Here’s what you actually need:
You need to carry all your food. The huts have gas cookers, pots, pans and eating utensils but nothing else. Most trampers aim for meals around 600-700 calories with snacks throughout the day. You’re burning serious energy.
Popular options:
Here’s the experienced tramper secret: repackage everything to reduce weight and bulk. Remove cardboard boxes. Decant into ziplock bags. Every gram counts. And yes, you can drink the stream water on the track – it’s some of the purest water you’ll find anywhere.
Learn from my mistakes:
Fiordland weather is legendarily unpredictable. The mountains create their own weather systems and conditions can change in minutes. You might experience all four seasons in a single day.
| Month | Average Temp (°C) | Rainfall | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|
| October-November | 8-16°C | High | Spring snow possible on pass, stunning waterfalls |
| December-January | 12-20°C | Moderate-High | Warmest and busiest, still wet |
| February-March | 10-18°C | High | Autumn colors, mellower crowds |
| April | 7-15°C | Very High | Cooler, wetter, fewer people |
The track gets closed occasionally due to weather. Usually this means heavy rain making river crossings unsafe or snow on MacKinnon Pass. DOC rangers make these calls and they prioritize safety over schedules. If your departure is delayed or you have to wait an extra day in a hut, accept it gracefully. Being annoyed won’t change the weather.
Some insider weather wisdom: check the mountain forecast, not just the general Fiordland forecast. MetService provides specific mountain weather. If MacKinnon Pass looks terrible but the overall forecast is okay, that’s still a problem for you.
DOC maintains three huts along the track and they’re surprisingly well-appointed. Each has:
The drying rooms deserve special mention. After hiking in rain all day, being able to dry your gear overnight is genuinely life-changing. Hang everything up when you arrive. Boots, socks, rain gear – all of it. You’ll be amazed what dries overnight.
Hut etiquette matters in the close quarters. Keep noise down after 10pm. Don’t spread your gear everywhere. Clean up after cooking. Be friendly but respect that some people want quiet after a long day. The rangers are fantastic resources – ask them about weather, track conditions, or local history.
Bring earplugs. Forty people in a hut means snoring. Always snoring.
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The Milford Track is graded moderate, which in New Zealand tramping terms means “suitable for reasonably fit people who exercise regularly.” It’s not technical. You don’t need mountaineering skills. But you do need a base level of fitness.
Honest assessment time: if you can comfortably walk 15-20km with a 10-12kg pack over varied terrain without being completely destroyed, you’ll be fine. If that sounds impossible, you need to train.
Hills matter. If you live somewhere flat, find stairs. Stadium steps work. Anything to prepare your legs for sustained uphill work. And practice going downhill with weight – that’s actually harder on your body than climbing.
Beyond the obvious physical demands, there are aspects of the Milford Track that catch people off guard:
These tiny biting insects are relentless. They’re worst in calm, overcast conditions and near water. They don’t transmit disease but their bites itch intensely for days. Some people react worse than others. Cover up when stopped. Apply repellent liberally and frequently. The locals swear by Dettol mixed with baby oil as an alternative to commercial repellents.
When it rains (and it will rain), the track becomes muddy. Not just damp – properly slippery, ankle-deep mud in sections. Accept this. Don’t try to avoid it by creating new paths (this damages vegetation). Walk through it. Your boots will survive.
You can only walk the track in one direction with everyone starting on the same day at each hut. This creates an unusual social dynamic. You’ll see mostly the same people each day. Some trampers love this camaraderie. Others find it claustrophobic. Just be aware.
Once you start, you’re committed to finishing. There are no easy exit points. If you’re struggling on Day 2, you still have to walk out. DOC can arrange helicopter evacuation in genuine emergencies but “I’m tired” doesn’t qualify. Make sure you’re ready before you start.
Every tramper wants to capture Fiordland’s beauty but there are practical considerations:
Here’s a secret: the walk from Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point on Day 4 has some of the track’s most photogenic spots but everyone is focused on finishing by then. Slow down and really look at the forest sections.
The Milford Track requires planning beyond just the walk itself. You need to arrange transport to the start and from the finish.
Most trampers base themselves in Te Anau the night before starting. On Day 1, you catch a bus to Te Anau Downs (about 30 minutes) then a boat to Glade Wharf (45 minutes). These transfers must be booked in advance – DOC provides a list of approved transport operators when you book your huts.
You need to pre-book a boat from Sandfly Point to Milford Sound (15 minutes). From Milford Sound you can catch a bus back to Queenstown or Te Anau. Some people fly from Milford Sound to Queenstown which gives spectacular aerial views but costs significantly more.
Pro tip: book all your transport when you book your huts. The logistics get complicated and everything needs to align with your walking dates.
You can walk the Milford Track independently (staying in DOC huts) or book a guided walk with companies like Ultimate Hikes. Guided walks use private lodges with proper beds, cooked meals and showers. They cost 3-4 times more than independent walking.
The guided option suits people who want comfort, don’t want to carry food, or feel nervous about navigation and weather decisions. Ultimate Hikes guides are knowledgeable and the lodges are genuinely nice.
But here’s my honest take: the Milford Track navigation is straightforward. It’s a well-marked path. You don’t need a guide for route-finding. The DOC huts are perfectly adequate. If you’re comfortable camping or tramping elsewhere in New Zealand, you don’t need a guided walk. Save your money for other adventures.
That said, if you’ve never done multi-day hiking, have mobility concerns, or just really value comfort, guided walks are excellent. No judgment either way.
Fiordland National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage area. It’s precious and fragile. Walking the Milford Track comes with responsibility:
DOC works incredibly hard to control pests (rats, stoats, possums) that threaten native birds. You might see bait stations along the track. Leave them alone. This pest control is why Fiordland still has thriving populations of native species.
The Milford Track has been called “the finest walk in the world” since 1908 when a London Spectator journalist wrote that phrase. It stuck. Quintin MacKinnon discovered the pass that bears his name in 1888, opening up a route from Te Anau to Milford Sound.
The track was initially developed for tourists in the 1890s. Yes, adventure tourism in Fiordland has been a thing for over 130 years. Early visitors stayed in basic huts and the journey was considerably harder than today’s maintained track.
Māori knew the area long before European discovery. They traveled through Fiordland to access pounamu (greenstone) on the West Coast. The Clinton and Arthur Valleys were part of traditional routes, though not exactly as the modern track follows.
Understanding this history adds depth to the experience. You’re walking a path that’s been traveled for centuries, though now with significantly better rain gear.
If you’re visiting Milford Sound before or after the track, several shorter walks showcase the area:
These walks take anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 hours and give you a taste of Fiordland’s landscapes without the multi-day commitment.
These are the things people learn after walking the track, not before:
Most Milford Track walks go smoothly but it’s worth knowing what to do if problems arise:
Minor injuries (blisters, strains, small cuts) you handle yourself with your first aid kit. The hut rangers have first aid training and can help with advice. For serious injuries requiring evacuation, rangers can radio for help. Helicopter rescue is available but expensive (make sure you have travel insurance that covers hiking).
This is unlikely on the Milford Track. The path is obvious and well-marked with orange triangles. If you somehow lose the track, stop. Don’t keep wandering. The sensible thing is to backtrack to the last marker you saw. But genuinely, getting lost on this track would take effort.
If weather becomes dangerous, rangers may hold trampers at huts. This occasionally happens with heavy rain flooding rivers or snow closing MacKinnon Pass. You’ll be safe in the huts and DOC will arrange alternative transport when possible. Stay flexible and patient.
Rangers sometimes have emergency supplies or other trampers will share. But you should plan properly. Four days of food isn’t that much to carry.
The track is officially closed from late April to late October. Technically you could walk it but avalanche risk is serious, rivers are dangerous, huts are closed and locked, and DOC doesn’t patrol the track. It’s not recommended and if you need rescue in winter, you’re on your own. The Great Walks season exists for good reasons.
Walk at your own pace. This isn’t a race. The beauty of the hut booking system is that everyone ends up at the same hut each night regardless of when they arrive. Fast trampers might finish by early afternoon. Slower groups might arrive by dinner time. Both are fine. The huts don’t run out of space because everyone is booked.
No. Accept that you’ll be off-grid for four days. Some people find this liberating. Emergency communication happens through hut radios operated by rangers.
Absolutely not. No dogs allowed anywhere in Fiordland National Park. The area is predator-controlled to protect native birds and dogs are not permitted.
You’re carrying and cooking your own food so this is entirely in your control. The huts have gas cookers and basic equipment. Bring whatever suits your dietary needs. Dehydrated camping meal companies now offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options.
There are toilet facilities at strategic points along the track, not just at huts. They’re marked on maps. If you’re caught genuinely desperate between facilities, go at least 50 meters from water and the track, bury waste, and pack out toilet paper in a ziplock bag. But with proper planning using the hut and track toilets, this shouldn’t be necessary.
For minor illness (upset stomach, cold, headache) you push through or rest at a hut and catch up next day if that’s feasible. For serious illness requiring evacuation, rangers can arrange helicopter rescue. Most people complete the track even with minor ailments but knowing your limits is important.
You can, but the water is extremely cold even in summer. Lake Mintaro near Mintaro Hut is popular for a quick dip. Some trampers swim at the huts after hot days. Just be aware the water temperature is bracing and always be cautious around rivers which can be deceptively strong.
New Zealand has no snakes, no dangerous mammals, no deadly spiders. The worst you’ll encounter is sandflies. There are wasps in summer which can be aggressive near nests but generally wildlife is harmless. The dangers on the Milford Track are environmental (weather, rivers, terrain) not animal-related.
No. The booking system is strict because huts have limited capacity. If you miss your start day due to travel delays, you forfeit your booking. This is harsh but necessary to manage the track. Build buffer days into your New Zealand itinerary before your Milford Track dates to avoid this disaster.
DOC doesn’t set age limits but realistically children need to be able to walk 18km in a day carrying their own gear (though parents often carry more of the load). Many families walk it with kids aged 10 and up. Younger children have completed it but it’s challenging. Consider your specific child’s fitness and hiking experience. The track isn’t technically difficult but the distances are real.
Limited privacy. It’s shared bunk rooms with 40 people. There are separate male and female sleeping areas in some huts. You’ll be sleeping near strangers. Bring earplugs and accept the communal nature of the experience. It’s part of the charm for some people and an inconvenience for others.
The Milford Track delivers on its reputation. It’s stunning, challenging, memorable and uniquely New Zealand. The key is preparation – physical fitness, proper gear, realistic expectations and booking early. Do those things right and you’ll have an incredible experience walking through one of the most beautiful places on Earth. The sandflies are still terrible though. That part never gets better.
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