The Luck at Last Mine Track in Whangamata, New Zealand is a historic walking trail leading to a 19th-century gold mining site. The moderate 2 hour return track winds through native bush to old mining relics, including tunnels and battery remains, offering insight into the region’s gold rush heritage and scenic forest views.
I walked this track on a crisp autumn morning and was pleasantly surprised by how well-preserved everything was. The old battery foundations and rusty machinery scattered around really brought the gold mining era to life. I spent ages poking around the ruins, trying to imagine what it must have been like working here over a century ago. The walk itself was easier than I expected – mostly flat along the old tramway, with the stream bubbling alongside. I did venture up to one of the mine tunnels out of curiosity, but didn’t go inside (they’re properly dodgy!). One thing Maria mentioned in the comments is spot on – watch your footing on the stream crossings. I managed to keep my feet dry, but only just. The rocks were pretty slippery. I’d definitely recommend taking your time here rather than rushing through. There’s so much to explore if you’re into industrial history, and the native bush growing back around everything creates this eerie, beautiful atmosphere. Just watch out for those steel rods sticking up near the mill site – I nearly tripped over one while taking photos!
Find more walks in this area at Whangamata walks and hiking trails.
The access road situation is a bit more complex than your average walking track. You’ll be driving through active forestry land on Taungatara Forestry Road, which means a few things you need to know before you set off.
From Whangamata, head north on State Highway 25 for about 7km. Just past the Onemana turnoff, look for Taungatara Forestry Road on your left – there’s signage but it’s easy to miss if you’re not paying attention. Once you turn off, it’s roughly 3km to the car park along a gravel forestry road.
Here’s the thing about forestry roads – they can be closed without much notice when logging operations are active. Always check before you go, especially on weekdays. The road is generally fine for 2WD vehicles in dry conditions but can get rutty and slippery when wet. Drive carefully and watch for logging trucks, particularly around blind corners. These trucks don’t muck about and they have right of way.
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The car park is on the right just before the first concrete river crossing. It’s not huge – maybe space for 6-8 vehicles – but I’ve never seen it full. The track starts on the opposite side of the road to the car park, clearly marked with Department of Conservation signage.
The first section of track winds through scrubby regenerating forest where previous logging has occurred. It’s not the prettiest start but stick with it – things improve dramatically. The track is well-formed here and easy to follow, though it can be muddy after rain.
After about 15 minutes you’ll descend to join the old mining tramway that once carried ore from the mine to the battery. This is where the walk gets really interesting. The tramway follows the Wharekawa Stream and is bounded by mature native bush including rimu, totara and nikau palms. The engineering is impressive when you consider this was built in the 1890s – solid stone retaining walls hold up sections of the track, and you can still see where the rail sleepers were laid.
The stream is your constant companion along this section, sometimes rushing over rocks, sometimes forming deep green pools. There are several small stream crossings using stepping stones. This is where decent footwear earns its keep – the rocks are almost always wet and can be treacherously slippery. I watched a bloke in running shoes do an impressive slip-and-slide routine that nearly ended badly.
After 50-60 minutes of walking (depending on your pace and how many photo stops you make) you’ll cross a small bridge and the main battery site opens up to your right. This is where the magic happens for history buffs.
The Luck at Last battery operated from the late 1890s through to the early 1900s, processing ore brought down from the mine tunnels higher up the valley. What you see today is remarkably well-preserved considering it’s been sitting in the bush for over a century.
| Feature | What You’ll See | Historical Significance |
|---|---|---|
| Battery Foundations | Concrete platforms and stone walls | Housed the stamp battery that crushed ore |
| Machinery Parts | Rusted flywheels, gears, stamps | Original equipment from the 1890s |
| Building Ruins | Stone walls, chimney remains | Worker accommodation and processing buildings |
| Water Races | Stone channels and wooden flumes | Brought water to power the battery |
| Tramway Formation | Level bench cut into hillside | Rail line for ore transport |
Take your time exploring but watch where you put your feet. There are steel rods, bits of machinery and deep holes scattered around. Some of the concrete foundations have reinforcing bars sticking up that are perfect shin-bashers if you’re not careful.
The information panels at the site do a decent job explaining what you’re looking at, though they’re starting to show their age. I’d recommend downloading some background information before you visit – it makes the ruins come alive when you understand what each bit was used for.
From the battery site, rougher tracks continue up the valley to the actual mine tunnels. This is where the track grade changes from easy to moderate, with some reasonably steep climbing involved. The tracks here are less maintained and can be quite muddy.
You’ll find several tunnel entrances higher up, some with old rail tracks still in place. These tunnels are seriously dangerous and you absolutely should not enter them. I know it’s tempting – believe me, I get it – but these workings are over 120 years old, unsupported in many places, and prone to collapse. There are also vertical shafts hidden in the bush that drop straight down into the mine workings.
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That said, the area around the tunnel entrances is fascinating. You can see mullock heaps (waste rock) dumped by miners, more ruined buildings, and evidence of the extensive water race system that kept the mine operating. The network of tracks up here can be confusing – I’d suggest sticking to the main formed tracks unless you’re confident with navigation.
The Luck at Last Mine wasn’t just a flash in the pan operation. It was one of the more successful mines in this part of the Coromandel, producing significant quantities of gold over several decades. Understanding a bit of the history makes the visit much more rewarding.
Gold was discovered in the Wharekawa area in the 1890s, sparking a small rush. The Luck at Last claim proved to be one of the better finds, with multiple veins of gold-bearing quartz. The mine went deep – some of the shafts extend over 100 metres down into the hillside, following the quartz veins.
The battery at its peak had 10 stamps, each weighing hundreds of kilos and powered by water wheels. These stamps would crush the ore into fine powder, which was then processed using mercury amalgamation to extract the gold. It was noisy, dangerous work and the mine had its share of accidents over the years.
What makes this site special is how much survives. Many Coromandel mining sites have been stripped for scrap metal or collapsed completely. The remoteness of the Luck at Last probably saved it – too hard to cart the heavy machinery out, so it was just left where it stood when the mine closed.
For other historic mining walks with well-preserved relics, check out the Broken Hills and Gem of Boom Creek walk and the Golden Hills battery site, both offering similarly fascinating glimpses into the Coromandel’s gold mining heritage.
This isn’t a backcountry expedition but you do need to be self-sufficient. There are zero facilities at the track – no toilets, no water, no mobile coverage to call for help if things go wrong.
I reckon autumn through spring is ideal for this walk. Summer can be hot and humid with limited shade in the logged areas near the start, plus the sandflies are more active. Winter is fine if you don’t mind the mud – just be prepared for potentially slippery conditions.
Autumn is particularly beautiful when the native bush shows off its subtle colour changes. Spring brings new growth and better water flow in the stream, making for prettier photos. The track is definitely more challenging after heavy rain when the stream crossings get trickier and the mud gets deeper.
Weekdays are generally quieter than weekends, though this track never gets truly busy. You might encounter a handful of other walkers but it’s not unusual to have the place to yourself, especially if you arrive early.
This is a relatively safe walk but there are hazards you need to be aware of. The biggest risks are around the mine workings themselves.
Mine Tunnels: Do not enter under any circumstances. These are old, unstable and dangerous. People have died in Coromandel mine tunnels. It’s not worth the risk for a cool photo.
Vertical Shafts: Hidden by vegetation in places, some of these drop straight down 50-100 metres. Stick to formed tracks in the mine area.
Protruding Metal: Steel rods, reinforcing bars and machinery parts stick up in unexpected places around the battery site. Watch where you put your feet.
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Stream Crossings: The rocks are slippery. Take your time and use trekking poles if you have them. The water’s not deep but a twisted ankle in the middle of nowhere is no fun.
Limited Communication: Mobile coverage is unreliable at best. Tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
Logging Trucks: On the access road, give them plenty of room and pull over when you hear them coming. They’re massive and can’t stop quickly.
After several visits to this site over the years I’ve picked up a few tricks that make the experience better.
Bring a headlamp: Not for the tunnels (don’t go in there!) but for peering into the mine entrances from a safe distance. You can see the old rail tracks and get a sense of how extensive the workings were.
Look for quartz: The mullock heaps around the mine tunnels are full of white quartz rock – the gold-bearing material the miners were after. Some pieces still have visible pyrite (fool’s gold) in them. Take photos, leave the rocks.
Check out the water races: Follow the water race channels upstream from the battery. The engineering is impressive – they channelled water for hundreds of metres using stone work and wooden flumes to power the machinery.
Visit at different times of day: Early morning light filtering through the bush creates an almost mystical atmosphere. Late afternoon is better for photography at the battery site when the sun’s lower.
Download a map: Mobile coverage is rubbish but if you’ve downloaded an offline map beforehand you can still track your position and explore the side tracks with confidence.
Wear long pants: The bush around the ruins can be scrubby with blackberry and lawyer vine. Your legs will thank you.
Bring gloves: If you want to move around the ruins and peer into gaps without getting covered in rust and dirt, light work gloves are handy.
If you’re staying in the Whangamata area for a few days, there are several other excellent walks worth tackling. The Broken Hills Water Race walk showcases similar mining history with the added bonus of viewing the engineering feat of the water supply system.
For something completely different, Lonely Bay offers stunning coastal scenery and is a perfect afternoon walk after a morning at the mine. The contrast between industrial history and natural beauty is what makes the Coromandel so special.
Another historical gem is the Te Para Historic Reserve, which preserves more gold mining history in a different geological setting. Between these walks you can get a comprehensive picture of how the gold rush shaped the Coromandel landscape.
This site is a photographer’s dream but the lighting can be tricky under the forest canopy. Here’s what works.
The battery site gets dappled light through the trees which can create harsh shadows. Overcast days actually produce better photos here – the soft even light brings out the texture of the old machinery without blown-out highlights. If you’re shooting on a sunny day, early morning or late afternoon works best.
Wide angle lenses are great for capturing the scale of the battery foundations and showing the machinery in its forest setting. But don’t forget a longer lens for detail shots – the texture of rusted metal, moss growing on stonework, and tree roots wrapping around old machinery make for compelling close-ups.
The stream offers reflection opportunities especially in the calmer pools. The old bridge near the battery site is photogenic from multiple angles. For the mine tunnels, shoot from outside looking in – you can get dramatic images of the dark entrance framed by bush without taking any risks.
The Luck at Last Mine Track can be suitable for older kids who are confident walkers, but I wouldn’t recommend it for young children. The hazards around the mine workings require constant supervision and the stream crossings can be challenging for little legs.
If you do bring kids, I’d suggest:
The history aspect can really capture kids’ imagination, especially when they can see and touch (carefully) real equipment from over a century ago. It beats looking at displays in a museum.
Dogs are allowed but must be on a leash. This is a sensible rule given the hazards around the site. The stream crossings can be tricky for smaller dogs and you’ll need to help them across in places. The mine tunnels are as dangerous for dogs as they are for people – possibly more so since dogs might be tempted to investigate.
Bring water for your dog and watch for signs of fatigue on hot days. The track is mostly shaded which helps but there are some exposed sections near the start.
The mine site is a fascinating blend of industrial history and regenerating native bush. The forest is slowly reclaiming the ruins, which creates that haunting atmosphere but also means the site is fragile in its own way.
Stick to formed tracks where possible to avoid damaging vegetation. Don’t move or remove any artifacts – they’re protected and future visitors deserve to see them too. The rusty machinery might look like junk but it’s historically significant.
Pack out everything you bring in. There are no rubbish bins for good reason – DOC wants to discourage people leaving waste. Bury toilet waste well away from the stream if necessary.
The stream water quality is compromised by old mine contamination. Heavy metals can leach from the workings for decades after mining stops. Don’t drink from the stream and be careful about letting dogs drink from it either.
It’s officially listed as easy but I’d call it easy to moderate. The track to the battery is mostly flat and well-formed, suitable for anyone with reasonable fitness. The extensions to the mine tunnels get steeper and rougher. The stream crossings can be tricky regardless of which section you’re on.
No, absolutely not. These tunnels are over 120 years old, structurally unsound, and extremely dangerous. There are also hidden vertical shafts that drop straight down. People have died in Coromandel mine tunnels. It’s not worth the risk.
Unfortunately no. The stream crossings using stepping stones, uneven ground around the ruins, and general bush track conditions make this unsuitable for wheelchairs or people with significant mobility challenges.
At minimum 2 hours return to the battery site and back. If you want to explore thoroughly and visit the mine tunnels, allow 3-4 hours. History buffs could easily spend half a day here.
Patchy at best, often none at all. Download offline maps before you go and tell someone your plans. Don’t rely on being able to call for help.
No camping is allowed at the car park or on the track. Whangamata has several commercial campgrounds and there are DOC camping areas elsewhere in the region.
Bring all the water you need. The stream water is not safe to drink due to potential heavy metal contamination from the old mine workings.
No toilets at the car park or along the track. Last chance is in Whangamata before you drive out.
Yes, the forestry road can be closed during active logging operations. Check with the Whangamata i-SITE or DOC before heading out, especially on weekdays.
The track becomes muddier and stream crossings more challenging in wet conditions. The ruins are still interesting but you won’t enjoy it as much. Better to wait for a clear day if possible.
No, this is a protected historic site. Take photos but leave everything as you found it for future visitors to enjoy.
Proper hiking boots with good grip and ankle support are essential. Long pants help protect against scratches from scrubby vegetation. Layers work best since you’ll warm up walking but might cool down while exploring the ruins.
The Luck at Last Mine Track offers a rare opportunity to step back in time and experience the Coromandel’s gold rush heritage first-hand. The combination of well-preserved ruins, interesting bush walk, and that slightly eerie atmosphere of abandoned industry being reclaimed by nature makes this a standout track. Just take your time, watch your footing, and respect the hazards. It’s a special place that deserves to be treated with care.
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One Response
Heather very kindly sent me this helpful comment, I’ve now updated the walk:
“This is an 8km walk in total. Mainly flat but with a few short climbs. Allow 2 hours return. Please update your info in the interest of safety.”