Te Henga Walkway is a 6.5km coastal track on Auckland’s west coast, connecting Bethells Beach to Muriwai. The 2-3 hour walk traverses sand dunes, beaches, and headlands, offering stunning views of the Tasman Sea. The route features diverse landscapes including Lake Wainamu, black sand beaches, and rugged coastal cliffs.
Find more walks in this area by checking out our complete guide to West Auckland walks.
From central Auckland, take State Highway 16 (Northwestern Motorway) towards Kumeu. Turn off at Waitakere and follow Bethells Road for about 10km. The road is narrow and winding with several one-way bridges, so take it easy. The journey takes roughly 45 minutes from the city centre.
From central Auckland, take State Highway 16 towards Helensville. Turn left onto Muriwai Road at Waimauku and follow it for approximately 12km to Muriwai Beach. Journey time is about 40 minutes from the CBD.
This is a one-way track, which means you’ll need to arrange transport at both ends. Your options include:
👉 👉 Freedom Camp Between Walks – Hire a Campervan – We’ve got the best deals
The Te Henga Walkway isn’t your average Auckland stroll. This track demands respect and a decent level of fitness. The initial climb from Bethells Beach gains about 150m in elevation over a relatively short distance, and those soft coastal sand sections will have your quads questioning your life choices.
Here’s what the guidebooks won’t tell you. The track can become a wind tunnel during westerly conditions, and I mean proper horizontal rain territory. If the forecast shows winds above 40km/h, seriously consider postponing. Your ears will thank you.
The orange markers are your friends but they’re not always obvious. In the section above O’Neill Bay, there are several side tracks created by people who’ve wandered off course. The real track stays relatively close to the coastline but not right on the cliff edge. If you haven’t seen an orange marker in five minutes, backtrack.
Timing matters more than you’d think. Starting from Bethells Beach means you’ll tackle the steepest climb while you’re fresh, which is the smarter approach. Plus, finishing at Muriwai means you can reward yourself with fish and chips at the beach café (if it’s open).
The black sand gets everywhere and it’s magnetic, which means it contains iron. This also means it heats up quickly in summer—don’t attempt the beach section barefoot unless you enjoy the sensation of walking on hot coals.
Autumn (March to May) and spring (September to November) offer the sweet spot for this track. Summer brings heat exposure on that ridgeline with no shade, while winter delivers the west coast’s full meteorological fury. That said, a crisp winter’s day with clear skies can be magical here—you’ll just need proper gear and a weather window.
Early morning starts are ideal for several reasons: fewer people, better light for photography, cooler temperatures, and you’ll often catch the mist clearing from the Waitakere Ranges behind you as you climb.
👉 👉 Freedom Camp Between Walks – Hire a Campervan – We’ve got the best deals
This isn’t a walk where you can get away with just a water bottle and your phone. Here’s what you actually need:
The west coast has a justified reputation for unpredictability. Rips and holes are common at both Bethells and Muriwai beaches, so admire the ocean from a safe distance. The cliffs along the track are unstable in places—stay on the formed track and well back from edges.
Tell someone your plans before you go. Mobile coverage is patchy at best along most of the track. If something goes wrong, you might be waiting a while for another tramper to pass by.
The track can become slippery after rain, particularly the descent sections. Take your time and use the handrails where provided.
Yes, but choose your weather window carefully. The track itself remains open year-round, but winter brings stronger winds, more rain, and shorter daylight hours. Check the forecast thoroughly and be prepared to postpone if conditions look dicey.
Older children (10+) with reasonable fitness and tramping experience should manage fine. The steep sections and length make it unsuitable for younger kids or those in carriers. There are better family-friendly options in the Waitakeres.
Not really. You could walk partway and return the same way, but there are no loop options or easier parallel tracks. The Lake Wainamu loop at Bethells Beach offers a shorter, easier alternative if Te Henga feels too ambitious.
You can turn around at any point, though the section above O’Neill Bay is roughly the halfway mark and makes a logical turnaround point. Just remember that returning means tackling those hills again.
Bethells to Muriwai (north to south) is generally considered preferable because you tackle the steepest climb first while fresh, and the descent into Muriwai is more gradual than the initial climb from Bethells would be in reverse.
Technically yes, but these west coast beaches are dangerous with strong rips, holes, and powerful surf. Unless you’re an experienced west coast swimmer who knows how to read these beaches, admire the water from the shore.
No. Facilities are only available at the Bethells Beach and Muriwai car parks at either end of the track. Plan accordingly.
The black sand stretched endlessly ahead as I made my way along Te Henga Walkway last autumn. Wind whipped across the exposed coastline, carrying the sharp scent of salt and seaweed. I’d started at the Bethells Beach car park just after dawn, hoping to beat the crowds, though I needn’t have worried—the place felt completely mine.
The track climbs steadily up the hillside, and within twenty minutes my calves were burning. But the views made every step worthwhile. Looking back, I could see the dark sweep of the beach meeting white-capped waves, with the Waitakere Ranges rising green and misty behind me.
What struck me most was the raw, untamed feeling of the place. None of the manicured prettiness of other Auckland walks—just windswept grass, rugged cliffs, and the constant roar of the Tasman Sea below. I passed a few other trampers near O’Neill Bay, exchanging brief nods, but otherwise walked in solitude.
The descent toward Muriwai was trickier than I expected. The path grew narrow and steep, zigzagging through scrubby bush. My knees protested with each downward step. When I finally emerged at the gannet colony, exhausted and windburned, I sat on the viewing platform for a good half hour, watching those elegant birds wheel and dive.
The whole walk took me about four hours. My legs ached for days afterward, but I kept thinking about that vast black beach and the feeling of being utterly insignificant against such wild coastline.
