Picture of Walk Author: Olly from Freewalks.nz
Walk Author: Olly from Freewalks.nz

Olly personally reviewed, documented, photographed and walked the Tongariro Northern Circuit In Dec 2022.

All walks by Olly

My 4 day awesome hike review of the Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a must-do for any adventurous fit type of person. I walked through some of the North Island’s most stunning scenery, including volcanic peaks, alpine meadows and emerald lakes. It’s an unforgettable experience that will leave you with memories that last a lifetime – not to mention some pretty impressive bragging rights!

The highlights of this walk:

Definitely the Tongariro Alpine Crossing section because of the epic views, great challenge, and true grit that it takes to push through it in bad weather. A proper challenge!!

Quick Facts about this walk

  • Location:  Tongariro National Park, North Island, New Zealand
  • Distance: 45 km full round trip
  • Time needed: 2-4 days
  • Difficulty: Medium
  • Wheelchair access: No
  • Route: Loop track
  • Elevation: 1590m at its highest point
  • Wet Feet: Most streams are bridged
  • Toilets: Yes. Toilets are available on the Tongariro Crossing section and at all 3 huts
  • Camping: Yes. Camping is allowed at all designated areas along the track. The best campsites are usually at the huts where tank water and toilets are available.
  • Dogs: Not allowed
  • Mobile Coverage: Yes on Vodafone and 2 Degrees, but nothing on Spark
  • Last Updated: Dec 2022

Summary points about this walk

5.45am, 7.15am, 8.30am, 9.45am departures – no need to book a return time. Returning to National Park from 1.30pm to 5.30pm. Finish your walk and catch the next available bus back.

Full descripiton of the whole 4 day walk on the Tongariro Northern Circuit

Day 1 of 4 appropriately nicknamed “the ditch track”

Is a 9 km trek to Mangatepopo hut where you will find 20 bunks, tank water, long drop toilets, a wood burner, and amazing views in good weather. Day 1 traverses through the lower volcanic valleys of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngaruhoe, and Mt Tongariro. The track is in very poor condition in some places but this is by far the worst section of the track of the whole trip. Ruts caused by water drainage issues get close to 2 meters deep in some spots. Despite this, they are easy to avoid with walkers being able to walk on the sides for most of the way.

Day 1 takes most walkers between 2.5-5 hrs to complete depending on the weather and fitness of the group. For reference, my group of 3 teenage boys took just over 2hrs in good weather.

Join a small group and follow a track which leads to the saddle between Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro. Discover incredible volcanic landscapes, emerald lakes, and craters with an English speaking tour guide.

Day 2 is the most physically challenging for most people as walkers have to tackle 200m climbs, scree, and possibly terrible weather.

The 12km day includes a staggering 700m elevation gain which is split between 2 climbs; the Devil’s Staircase and South Crater to Red Crater. This rugged trek can have weather nice enough for a picnic, or bad enough to give you hypothermia in summer.

The weather literally changes in minutes on this section so always be prepared with warmer layers, a PLB, emergency blankets for all members, as well as a rain jacket even on a sunny day.

You will steadily climb from Mangatepopo hut to soda springs where the gigantic mountains will dwarf you from either side. Next up is the Devil’s staircase, a 300 meter climb, which consists of mostly steps and well graded track.

You will then reach South crater where you will be met with a sheltered spot for a rest before the 200 meter ascent to red crater. This climb can be very icy depending on the conditions and time of year you attempt this section in.

Once you reach red crater, you will be met with a steep scree decent down to the emerald lakes. This is the most famous section and also the section where most injuries occur. Keep you feet facing down slope and shuffle in small steps.

Once at the Emerald lakes, you will take a right turn before making a sudden decent to the Oturere stream where you will cut through the desert-like terrain to Oturere Hut.

Day 3 starts with a steep decent shortly after leaving the hut followed by rolling river valleys.

You cross and follow a couple ridges before making the decent down to cross one of the many Waihohonu stream tributary’s. It can get muddy here so be prepared to get your feet wet if there has been alot of rain in the past few days. After the bridge to cross the stream, you will be prompted with a lengthy up hill to a ridgetop and then a downhill towards Waihohonu hut where you will stay the night.

Day 4 starts off as well graded, mostly flat, gravel and board walk track.

This section of the circuit is the longest at 15.5km. Despite this, the track consists of no more than 350 meters of ascent (not much for the distance). The Tama Lakes turnoff marks the halfway point which can be easily spotted by looking out for a junction signpost.

Lower Tama (10 min) is a very popular lunch/break spot for people walking this section of track as walkers can take in the spectacular view of the Lower Tama Lake and Mt Ruapehu whilst being able to sit in a fairly sheltered area.

Around 13kms in, you will pass by the incredible Taranaki falls which I highly reccomend as a great swimming spot, even in the winter if you can bear the cold! Shortly after, you will arrive at Whakapapa Village where you started a couple days back.

**This is written in the clockwise direction and based off of December conditions**

My photos of the Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk

5.45am, 7.15am, 8.30am, 9.45am departures – no need to book a return time. Returning to National Park from 1.30pm to 5.30pm. Finish your walk and catch the next available bus back.

Join a small group and follow a track which leads to the saddle between Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro. Discover incredible volcanic landscapes, emerald lakes, and craters with an English speaking tour guide.

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